A review of a bespoke jacket from Poznań tailors, Krupa&Rzeszutko.
Krupa&Rzeszutko Bespoke Tailoring kindly offered to make this jacket for me for a reduced price. I also provided the cloth. They had no influence over the final shape of this text and had not reviewed it before publication. This is in accordance with my editorial policy, which you can view here.
I bought the cloth from a tailor whom I trust with all my alterations about a year ago. It’s vintage camelhair, but not too much of it – a little less than 1,6 metres. Just enough to make a jacket for someone my size. Later, in January, during Pitti Uomo, I had a chance to talk to Karol Rzeszutko, who runs Krupa&Rzeszutko Bespoke Tailoring with his grandfather, Mr. Henryk Krupa, and decided I wanted them to make the fabric into a garment. Karol took my measurements, and we talked a bit about how I see the jacket. I wanted the construction to be soft and lightweight, but with pronounced lapel roll. Soft shoulders, wide lapels, three-roll-two closure, patch hip pockets and barchetta breast pocket. More Italian inspired, but in this thick, warm fabric.
I was not in a hurry, so I didn’t rush the tailors; the first fitting happened only by the end of Semptember.
Photos by Łukasz Masłowski (Outdersen)
During the first fitting the breast pocket was already there. We decided on the final width of the lapels and placement of the gorge. Karol proposed that we could make the gorge subtly curve, and I liked the idea. We also chose the shape and size of the pockets – you can see a pattern being tried on the jacket on one of the photos above.
The jacket would be half-lined, and finished with a thread only slightly darker than the fabric.
Some adjustments were made in the waist and the back. I should have noticed the jacket was a bit short, because making it longer at this point would be no problem. Unfortunately, I only noticed it on the photos, and not so much in the mirror.
The tailors said it should be possible to be done with the jacket with just two instead of typical three fittings, which was good news for me. As much as I enjoyed the process, Poznań is a little far from Kraków – about six hours by train.
The jacket looked quite promising during the second fitting, not even a month later. Beautiful curved shapes, the roll of the lapel, it was all already there. The pockets and the sleeves were basted to the jacket. Also worth noting is the hand-padded collar.
We adjusted the sleeve length, and decided on the placement of buttons. The central button is about 1cm above the navel, and I decided – following the advice of Mr. Henryk Krupa – to place the buttons closer together than the typical 11cm. I remembered seeing this Orazio Luciano jacket with buttons rather close together and liking it.
I decided on a double row of pick-stitching on the fronts and the pockets.
I also finally noticed the jacket could be longer. It was not so easy to just let out some fabric, because of the character of the cloth – there was a risk that ironing it on the edges might have left a mark. Fortunately it turned out to not be the case.
The final garment
Photos by Łukasz Masłowski (Outdersen)
The jacket was finished by the half of November, and I went to collect it. Indeed, when the work actually started, it went very fast, especially for a bespoke garment.
Krupa&Rzeszutko is a very curious place. Karol Rzeszutko is one of the younger tailors in Poland, I believe, and does his best to keep up with the trends of the classic menswear world. His grandfather, Mr. Henryk Krupa, is more old-school, though as I’ve heard, even he is slowly becoming convinced towards softer, more comfortable tailoring. He has years of experience in how things should fit, however. During fittings the client can often see those two approaches – classic and modern, though not in a crude, fashion-y kind of way – come against each other, and is left to decide which one to go with.
This means the house doesn’t have as distinct a style as some others, but is more adaptable. This may be a risky thing in less skilled hands; after all you want your tailor to feel comfortable with the work he’s doing for you, to fully use his skills. I’m rather convinced, however, that it works well in case of Krupa&Rzeszutko. Or at least it worked for me.
Photos by Mariusz Jeziorko (Barwnie.com)
The fit is very good, though a bit looser than I usually wear. It’s not a bad thing – works nicely with the soft fabric and gentle curves of the garment. The armholes are high, the sleeves quite narrow. The final length seems spot on for me; I know, however, some prefer longer jackets. I only wonder if the jacket should perhaps fit more snugly around the shirt collar.
I’m very satisfied with the style as well. The curves of the barchetta pocket and the gorge are subtle, the shape of the hip pockets well balanced. The quarters open below the buttoning point the way I like. Everything flows harmoniously and is well-proportioned.
The amount of handwork is also impressive. Pick-stitching follows almost all the seams, and as stated before, there’s a double row on the pockets and fronts. The buttonholes are very neatly made, which is a problem for many tailors in Poland.
Overall, I’m very pleased with how the jacket turned out, and I’ve been wearing it a lot over the last several days. Seeing how warm it is, I believe I’ll have a lot of use for it over the winter.
The biggest problem I see with it is that it doesn’t look too well with my go-to camel coat. Which means I do need a new coat after all.
Jackets made of client’s fabric start at 2500PLN for plain and 3000PLN for checked fabric. Jackets made of in-house fabrics start from 3500 and 4000PLN respectively. The price depends, among others, on the fabric and the amount of hand finish.
Krupa&Rzeszutko Bespoke Tailoring is located in Poznań, Łąkowa 20/4 st.