A more relaxed outfit lets me be a bit more relaxed about classic rules. Just doing thing that feel right. I can do that when I’m not forced to wear a suit.
And few people are nowadays. And this is where the smart casual comes in. More or less smart.
The rules say: the double-breasted jacket stays buttoned. Standing, sitting, running for the train, fighting the Alien on a spaceship – one button on the inside, at least one on the outside.
So it’s not too popular to wear waistcoats with double-breasted jackets. The waistcoat stays mostly invisible anyway.
And I would respect this rule if I was wearing a formal double-breasted suit. But a soft, informal jacket, with a texture visible on satellite pictures? Not really.
Now, an unbuttoned DB is not the most flattering look. Not as unflattering as it would be the case in older jackets this type, cut with more room around the waist – current clothes tend to be really close-fitting, so there’s not that much extra fabric on the sides.
But it’s not always about creating and maintaining the illusion of the ideal silhouette. If this was always a priority, we wouldn’t observe a retreat of stiff and constructed jackets, we wouldn’t see this cult of soft shoulders. It’s the canvassing, the shoulder padding which allows to sculpt the proper shape of the garment, and this allows for correcting more perceived imperfections of our bodies than just playing around with the lapel width.
It’s not just about getting this inverted triangle thing. There’s pattern, theres colour, there’s texture. And this elusive feeling of comfort and pleasure derived from wearing those clothes.
Obvioulsy, explaining my transgressions here, I’m doing something I’ve already written that shouldn’t be done. But this is what a blog is for. I’m here to write about things you can share only with fellow enthusiasts, because I feel rather silly talking about it to uninterested people.
About the outfit: taking two pieces from a three-piece suit is something I’ve gotten to really like, and I do it more and more lately. The trousers have been shown here before, now there’s also the waistcoat, made for me by a Kraków-based tailor, Mr. Andrzej Kucia.
I’m usually this guy who jumps on a bandwagon once the bandwagon already left (and the band’s frontman died, and the band fell apart, and they tried a reunion tour, but that was a flop, and… you get the picture). A camel coat is kind of like that – it’s been such a popular thing for the last several seasons, and I needed quite some time to decide whether I actually like it. After trying it on with various outfits, I begrudgingly admitted that yes, it does look pretty good.
White OCBD shirt, a very basic article of clothing which works pretty much with every smart casual thing ever.
The suede boots with a blue lace didn’t have the blue lace in the beginning. Both of the laces were brown. But I was putting them on one day, in a bit of a hurry, and one of the laces broke. And the only spares I had where in a definitely non-brown colours, so I replaced the broken one with this. And after a while I’ve grown to like it.
Trousers, waistcoat: Mr. Andrzej Kucia, tailor, 8 Gertrudy street, Kraków // Jacket, coat, boots – Massimo Dutti // shirt – Miler Menswear // pocket square – Poszetka.com
Photos: Robert Purwin (Mr. Faceless)