There’s nothing wrong with looking a little retro sometimes.
Excluding jeans, I almost don’t wear my trousers with a belt anymore. I opt for braces, or even more often – just side adjusters to keep my trousers where they should be. And since I mostly wear them high on my waist, they don’t really fall down. I like this look – it’s clean, with no added bulk at the waist. Simple lines, one less accessory to coordinate.
But I think that sooner or later I’m going to order myself a pair of Hollywood-top trousers.
No separate waistband, dropped belt loops showing the trousers’ fabric above the line of the belt. They look great with a belt that’s rather narrow. Add a pleat or two. Yeah, looks old-fashioned, but in a good way.
One of the more unusual bespoke commissions I made over the past six months was these linen trousers, made by Edward Sexton. Known as a Hollywood waistband, or Hollywood top, the design was fairly popular in the 1940s and into the 1950s in the US. The infamous zoot suit frequently featured it. Photo @jkf_man #bespoke #style #mensstyle #styleblogger #trousers #summer #hollywood #menswear #crocodile #edwardsexton #permanentstyle
The part where waistband should be is typically still reinforced by a layer of canvas, but it may still end up being lighter and more comfortable, especially in the warmer weather. Make them in linen and add a bit wider leg (let’s not overdo it, though), and you may end up with a pair that wears great in summer.
Make them in flannel, and you can wear them with a roll-neck sweater and a bomber jacket – and you’ll look like Indiana Jones’s cousin.
It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchanged The Armoury for Drop93 – the pre-owned and consignment store from the Armoury team. And we welcomed in Edward Sexton. #style #savilerow #flannel #tailoring #london #menswear #trousers
This design has Sinatra’s cool, Astaire’s fun; it’s all the good things about retro. And it can be experimented with. It can work with braces:
Or with extended tab and side adjusters:
And it’s subtle enough to work even with more fancy fabrics:
For me, trousers like that would be a part of a brown linen suit. A jacket with lower gorge, extended – but still soft – shoulders. And how would you wear them?