My latest order from the online MTM maker, Luxire.
I’ve written before about a shirt I ordered from Luxire.com, Bangalore-based online MTM maker. I made another order, and decided to make another post just about it, and there are two reasons for this.
One is that it’s my first pair of trousers from them, so I wanted to write about them in detail. Two: I used their new website. You may recall that the design of their site was one of my main complaints last time, and I welcome the new version: it’s not perfect, but it is a major improvement.
Let’s start with the website. Available at mtm.luxire.com, it has a gallery of fabrics with filters allowing you to browse by colour, pattern or weave; each fabric also has information on its weight, thickness and stiffness. This is nice, as it gives you a better idea of the fabric you’re selecting than you’d have by just looking at the photo. But where the site shines is when you go to styling.
You can choose from a few pre-defined styles: from classic shirts or trousers, to almost fully handmade ones. You can also customize each style. And the number of options is breathtaking.
Luxire is known for doing their best to satisfy customers’ wishes. If you describe changes you want made, they’ll try to fulfill your wishes. But the customization form has so many options, you most likely won’t have to bother describing anyting. 19 shirt collar styles, each with a photo, and in each you can modify the length of the collar point, height of the band in front and back, tie space, number of band buttons, type of interlining. Placement of the cuff button and how rounded you want it to be. The way the cuff is attached to the sleeve. Shape of the gussets. And hand made details. The hand made stuff is paid extra – but most of the modifications are not.
I’ve seen prettier websites. The navigation could still use some work. But I haven’t yet seen a site which gives the customer so many options to choose from.
I decided on cotton twill fabric in 280g, which turned out to be nice and soft to touch. I wanted something thicker that I could wear throughout the autumn. And I wanted gurkha trousers – this style has been on my mind for quite some time now, so I chose their predefined gurkha style.
The trousers were made according to the measurements I provided. The tricky thing is, even if you do give all the numbers, you still can’t really be sure how will they translate into the final garment – two pairs made according to the same measurements can look and fit very differently. Online order also means you don’t get a fitting during which such things can be corrected – so I wouldn’t recommend going with an expensive fabric on your first order.
The fit is okay – though I find the trousers are somewhat tight around the hips. I may take them to a tailor to see what can be done about that, and I surely will ask Luxire what should I modify in my next order to get a nicer, cleaner fit. But for the first pair of trousers, it’s good and I’m satisfied.
Gurkha belting system is also insanely comfortable. I love it.
I love the finish: bar tacks, hand made pick-stitching on the pockets and fly. It’s amazing value for money, and it’s hard to top that.
The shirt is made of rather heavy, almost 230g, gray cotton pique. It’s soft and comfortable, but also warmer than I expected. Well, it just means I can wear it now. Mother-of-pear buttons are a standard and you don’t have to pay extra for them.
I chose four-button placket, extreme cutaway soft collar, extra rounded cuffs with button moved toward the wrist, and shirring instead of pleats by the cuff.
My mistake was with measurements: I ordered the sleeves too long and too large in the forearm. You can see there’s too much fabric in some of the photos. I forgot the pique will stretch over time rather than shrink. This will have to be corrected, so I’ll take the shirt to the tailor as well.
What was rather surprising, was that the side seam is not a French seam, but just regular overlock. I don’t think it’s a standard for Luxire shirts – my OCBD has French seams. But it may be due to the fact that in this fabric French seam would be too bulky. Well, it will make correcting my mistake and narrowing the sleeves much easier at least.
The button placement on the cuff allows me to roll the cuff up, folding it in half. I also love the collar.
Those are very nice clothes, with fantastic value for money. The level of customization is unparalleled by other online MTMs. Just click around their new website to get an idea of how much you can change in your order.
But you have to keep in mind that getting the perfect fit is an iterative process – that’s why bespoke makers have fittings, during which it can be corrected. So don’t expect to nail it on your first order, and be prepared for a trip to a trusted tailor to adjust a few things here and there.
Trousers: Twill Chino Sand Drab Khaki, $99 + $20 for gurkha option
Shirt: Grey Pique, $89
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