Navy is a beautiful and versatile colour, but sometimes I feel like wearing something different.
So the various shades of beige and brown are dominating here this time, sprinkled with some light gray. It’s not a usual winter palette – not many dark colours here, except the dark brown on the shoes, gloves, and scarf. But it feels very nice to wear.
I’m back to the camel (not really – it’s wool with a touch of cashmere) overcoat, which is cut very short. I got used to my military greatcoat, cut below the knee, so I needed some getting used to this cut again. If I were to order it bespoke or MTM, I would prefer it somewhat longer – no such freedom in terms of style in ready-to-wear stuff, especially when you also take affordability into account.
Trousers are made of cream moleskin, and are the same I wore on Pitti. Here you can see some more details, including the wide waistband. They get dirty like crazy, but fortunately moleskin is a cotton fabric and can be washed – something I already tested a few times. They are incredibly warm and soft, and I love wearing them. After a day of wear though, even if they don’t warrant a wash, they inevitably require a good press – the crease isn’t as sharp as on wool trousers, and the knees get somewhat baggy. Nothing a good iron can’t fix, though.
The brown wool tie I thrifted ages ago, and its texture works nicely with the thick fabric of the trousers, and the real, heavyweight oxford of the shirt. Which, by the way, is quickly becoming my favourite. It’s incredibly comfortable to wear, and I love the soft collar with substantial roll.
There’s also a cashmere scarf in low-contrast pattern. Very warm and soft. Of course the way I’m wearing it on the photos doesn’t provide much warmth (though it’s not entirely without function – a layer of cashmere over your chest does make some difference). However, it’s not purely decorative – it was, after all, an outfit I was wearing the whole day, and I had other plans after the photoshoot; knotted around my neck it was invaluable later, when I was going home in the evening.
I usually don’t wear a pocket square in the coat. Here, however, I decided to add it, just to break the colour combination a bit by adding a little splash of blue. It’s discreet, but it’s there.
The shoes are a budget placeholder – I needed to get something for this winter, and – can you imagine? – I never owned a pair of chukkas, so I didn’t know whether I’d like them. Turns out I do, and I will be looking for a better pair which will last longer once I wear those down.
And then there’s the beanie – the sign of my defeat. Sometimes you need to cover your head. Say, it’s really cold, or your hair looks ridiculous that day – or any of a number of different reasons. I wanted – and still really want – a hat, but I’ve yet to find one that works well with my face. A cap is another option – but many of those I tried also don’t look particularly good on me, so I’m reluctant to buy one. A beanie is the most neutral option and while it maybe doesn’t look fantastic, it’s OK – and that’s more than I can say about most things I’ve tried to wear on my head.
Coat and jacket – Massimo Dutti // OCBD shirt – Luxire // trousers – Benevento // tie – Corneliani (thrifted) // pocket square, scarf and gloves – Poszetka.com // beanie – H&M // bag – Sartolane // chukkas – Gant
Photos by: Robert Purwin (Mr.Faceless)