Tuxedo. Enough said.
I’ve wanted a tuxedo for quite some time now. I finally have a reason to get one: I’m graduating soon, and there’s going to be a ball. I deserve to have a bit of fun now, don’t I?
Let’s get this straight: this tux is not going to see any heavy use. I don’t even really need it, and for the ball, a nice suit would do just fine. I’m quite sure I’m going to be overdressed. But I’ve kind of gotten used to that by now.
And there’s something so… cool about a tuxedo.
On the one hand, it’s a formal outfit. There’s a lot of rules I don’t want to go around breaking in this case. On the other – these are party clothes after all. Unlike white tie gear, this has some edge. Pop culture helps, giving us guys who are not always well-behaved aristocrats, wearing tuxes.
This particular one is from Suit Supply. The details are nice and classic: wide silk-covered peak lapel, single button closure, jetted pockets. One could argue that side vents are a non-orthodox thing, but as far as I know, they’re acceptable, and I find this kind of jacket more comfortable than a ventless one.
On the reverse of the lapel there are small dimples indicating pad stitching, suggesting at least a half-canvassed construction.
The cut is very modern though: the waist is really narrow, and the trousers are slim (18,5cm at the bottom of the leg in my size).
The rest of the outfit doesn’t really have anything rule-defying. A white shirt with studs and front, collar and cuffs made of cotton pique. Black oxford shoes.
The bow tie and cummerbund were made for me by Poszetka.com. If I were to be completely, totally, one-hundred-percent correct, I would choose a low-cut evening waistcoat instead of the cummerbund: it’s supposed to work better with a peak lapel tuxedo jacket. Unfortunately, here I encountered something that could only be described as a first world problem: Suit Supply doesn’t carry this kind of waistcoats. Nor cummerbunds, for that matter.
The tuxedo looks better with some kind of waist covering: something that hides this little white spot of the shirt peeking from under the button of the jacket. The whole outfit seems more polished this way. However trying to find wool and silk matching the fabrics used for the jacket and ordering a bespoke waistcoat wasn’t worth the effort, I decided.
Initially I thought a smaller bow tie would work better with my narrow face. It would, in any other circumstance, I believe. Here, however, it quite nicely complements the spectacular width of the lapels.
Neither the fabric nor the interfacing is particularly stiff, which makes the bow tie sag a little. I find it little detail very pleasing, as it gives the tie a nice shape, which is as distinct from a ready-tied bow tie as possible.
Now I should be on a lookout for situations to wear these clothes. Maybe I’ll finally start going to theatre or opera premieres and stop being such a cultural troglodyte?
There’s one more thing: an illustration made for me by a London-based illustrator Jon Leigh. The guy’s amazingly talented, so have a look at his Instagram and don’t forget to follow!
Tuxedo and shirt – Suit Supply // bow tie and cummerbund – Poszetka.com
Photos: Mariusz Jeziorko (Barwnie.com)